Wednesday, December 9, 2009

The Street vs. The Runway


1. Zoot Suit


The zoot suit consisted of a high waist, wide-legged, tight-cuffed, pegged trouser accompanied by a long coat with wide labels and padded shoulders. This style of clothing was popularized by African, Italian, Mexian, Filipino Amerians and Puerta Ricans during the late 1930s and 1940s.





Men's Italian Black & Gold Pinstripe Dress Fashion Zoot - Men's USA




Dior Homme - Fall/Winter 2008 Milan and Paris Highlights - Baggy and flowing pants





Emanuel Ungaro - Fall/Winter 2008 Milan and Paris Highlights - Baggy and Flowing Pants



2. Teddy Boys



Inspired by the Edwardian Period, Teddy Boys were emerging teenagers that dressed to impress. Long drape jackets in dark shades, sometimes with velvet trim collars and pocket flaps; high-waisted skinny trousers were accessorized with colorful socks and sometimes Oxfords completed this fashion trend with style. Not to mention the skinny tie that gave the look a distinct personality.





Late 1950's Teenagers in Zoot Suits







Teddy Boy Label - Evan Ferber and Ahmed Abdallah









Jean Paul Gaultier Men Fall/Winter 2009

3. Beatniks

The Beatnik style was all about making a statement about politics or the world. Black turtle necks, simple jewelry, covered feet with a rounded toe or simple lace ups was a statement within itself. It shyed away from the mainstream, often in layers with berets and scarves, fitted clothing in monochrome colors, it was a stand against materialism and a strive toward intellectual and spiritual enlightenment.



Audrey Hepburn in tailored pants, turtle neck and rounded toe flat shoes.





Betsy Johnson - Fall 2008 Collection - Beatnik inspired



Phillip Lim Men's Spring 2010 Collection - Beatnik inspired

4. Mods

In the early 1960s in London where younger generations had disposable income to spend on expensive clothing, whether it was a greaser rocker look or a more androgynous one the hip youngsters were narcissitic and fashion obsessed. Twiggy the international super model is the most well known representation of this decade. Her short hair and ultra thin frame made her the poster child of the Mod or Modernist era.



Twiggy aka Lesleye Hornby at the age of 16 became the first prominent teenage model.




New York Fall '09 - Phillip Lim




Narcisco Rodriguez - Fall 2009 Runway

5. Hippies

Hippies also knows as hipsters listened to psychedlic rock, did drugs, and embraced their sexuality. They originated in the United States specifically San Francisco which then spread globally. The hippies fashion was based on vibrancy of apparel and accessories, it was about being individualistic and didn't "conform" to what mainstream considered fashionable. They separated themselves with embracing the casual attire with the blue jean as the staple that held it together. It was a time of expression, freedom, love and peace.



1960's hippies in Boston - bold prints and colors, expressive jewelry




Matthew Williamson (far left), Diane von Furstenberg (center), Anna Sui (right).

6. Disco

Platform shoes, bell bottoms, mini skirts, wrap around dresses, hip huggers, crop tops, off the shoulder necklines and three piece suits are characteristic of this era. Think Saturday Night Fever with John Travolta for a clear picture of what this late 1970's time period represented.



Bold prints, three piece suits, feathered hair are all popular during this era.




Carrie Underwood in THEIA at the 2009 Country Music Awards is dubbed the Country Disco Queen in a silver and crystal gown.



Diane Von Ferstenburg - 2009 Sequin T-shirt in a slouchy boho shape


7. Punk

Punk first emerged in the mid 1970's in London as an aggressive movement that defined itself as an anti-fashion urban street culture. Thrift shops were more aligned with the populations limited funds and resources. Drawing attention was the focus of this fashion style with a raw appeal and technique. Vivienne Westwood comes to mind as one that first embraced this movement and translated it into her own visions.





Ramones in Punk Fashion; Album: Anarchy in the UK 1976




Vivienne Westwood - Spring 2006 Collection




Luella Bartley - Autumn/Winter 2009/2010 Collection


8. Hip Hop

During the 1980s, hip-hop icons included brightly labeled track suits, bomber jackets, sneakers, heavy jewelry, large eyeglasses, and hats. Jheri curls and hi-top fades completed the over the top look. Rap music is closely associated from the 1980's as being representative of the hip hop era. The interesting thing is hip hop influences a range of designers from Chanel to Sean Combs which gives it versatility and flavor.

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Vintage 1980's hip hop inspired dress


Chanel Belt - over the top hip hop inspired






50 Cent Album Cover - modern hip hop look includes a tight tank top, fitted jeans, over the top jewelry, a skewed baseball hat and a fitted bandana



New Trends

1. Jumpsuits

Jumpsuits now are more stylish than they used to be. Initially, jumpsuits were black or white with a halter top in the late 60's early 70's. Eventually color and print made their way into the jumpsuit designs where now new fabrics, accessories and a play on the traditional silhouette has brought this oldie into the 21st century.





Alexander McQueen - Spring Summer 2009, girl body con-jumpsuits made with Swarovski Crystals




First Left Above - Wallis Spring Summer 09, Navy halter jumpsuit

2. Futuristic Trends

This trend pushes thresholds with geometric shapes, altered silhouettes and uses color and pattern to make a statement. Whether this trend actually makes it into wardrobes or not is questionable but will definitely open up our eyes to new possibilities or encourage other designers to draw inspiration from unlikely places.




Celine - Spring/Summer 2009 Collection



Gareth Pugh - Spring/Summer 2009 Collection










Balenciaga - Spring/Summer 2009 Collection

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