Wednesday, December 9, 2009

The Street vs. The Runway


1. Zoot Suit


The zoot suit consisted of a high waist, wide-legged, tight-cuffed, pegged trouser accompanied by a long coat with wide labels and padded shoulders. This style of clothing was popularized by African, Italian, Mexian, Filipino Amerians and Puerta Ricans during the late 1930s and 1940s.





Men's Italian Black & Gold Pinstripe Dress Fashion Zoot - Men's USA




Dior Homme - Fall/Winter 2008 Milan and Paris Highlights - Baggy and flowing pants





Emanuel Ungaro - Fall/Winter 2008 Milan and Paris Highlights - Baggy and Flowing Pants



2. Teddy Boys



Inspired by the Edwardian Period, Teddy Boys were emerging teenagers that dressed to impress. Long drape jackets in dark shades, sometimes with velvet trim collars and pocket flaps; high-waisted skinny trousers were accessorized with colorful socks and sometimes Oxfords completed this fashion trend with style. Not to mention the skinny tie that gave the look a distinct personality.





Late 1950's Teenagers in Zoot Suits







Teddy Boy Label - Evan Ferber and Ahmed Abdallah









Jean Paul Gaultier Men Fall/Winter 2009

3. Beatniks

The Beatnik style was all about making a statement about politics or the world. Black turtle necks, simple jewelry, covered feet with a rounded toe or simple lace ups was a statement within itself. It shyed away from the mainstream, often in layers with berets and scarves, fitted clothing in monochrome colors, it was a stand against materialism and a strive toward intellectual and spiritual enlightenment.



Audrey Hepburn in tailored pants, turtle neck and rounded toe flat shoes.





Betsy Johnson - Fall 2008 Collection - Beatnik inspired



Phillip Lim Men's Spring 2010 Collection - Beatnik inspired

4. Mods

In the early 1960s in London where younger generations had disposable income to spend on expensive clothing, whether it was a greaser rocker look or a more androgynous one the hip youngsters were narcissitic and fashion obsessed. Twiggy the international super model is the most well known representation of this decade. Her short hair and ultra thin frame made her the poster child of the Mod or Modernist era.



Twiggy aka Lesleye Hornby at the age of 16 became the first prominent teenage model.




New York Fall '09 - Phillip Lim




Narcisco Rodriguez - Fall 2009 Runway

5. Hippies

Hippies also knows as hipsters listened to psychedlic rock, did drugs, and embraced their sexuality. They originated in the United States specifically San Francisco which then spread globally. The hippies fashion was based on vibrancy of apparel and accessories, it was about being individualistic and didn't "conform" to what mainstream considered fashionable. They separated themselves with embracing the casual attire with the blue jean as the staple that held it together. It was a time of expression, freedom, love and peace.



1960's hippies in Boston - bold prints and colors, expressive jewelry




Matthew Williamson (far left), Diane von Furstenberg (center), Anna Sui (right).

6. Disco

Platform shoes, bell bottoms, mini skirts, wrap around dresses, hip huggers, crop tops, off the shoulder necklines and three piece suits are characteristic of this era. Think Saturday Night Fever with John Travolta for a clear picture of what this late 1970's time period represented.



Bold prints, three piece suits, feathered hair are all popular during this era.




Carrie Underwood in THEIA at the 2009 Country Music Awards is dubbed the Country Disco Queen in a silver and crystal gown.



Diane Von Ferstenburg - 2009 Sequin T-shirt in a slouchy boho shape


7. Punk

Punk first emerged in the mid 1970's in London as an aggressive movement that defined itself as an anti-fashion urban street culture. Thrift shops were more aligned with the populations limited funds and resources. Drawing attention was the focus of this fashion style with a raw appeal and technique. Vivienne Westwood comes to mind as one that first embraced this movement and translated it into her own visions.





Ramones in Punk Fashion; Album: Anarchy in the UK 1976




Vivienne Westwood - Spring 2006 Collection




Luella Bartley - Autumn/Winter 2009/2010 Collection


8. Hip Hop

During the 1980s, hip-hop icons included brightly labeled track suits, bomber jackets, sneakers, heavy jewelry, large eyeglasses, and hats. Jheri curls and hi-top fades completed the over the top look. Rap music is closely associated from the 1980's as being representative of the hip hop era. The interesting thing is hip hop influences a range of designers from Chanel to Sean Combs which gives it versatility and flavor.

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Vintage 1980's hip hop inspired dress


Chanel Belt - over the top hip hop inspired






50 Cent Album Cover - modern hip hop look includes a tight tank top, fitted jeans, over the top jewelry, a skewed baseball hat and a fitted bandana



New Trends

1. Jumpsuits

Jumpsuits now are more stylish than they used to be. Initially, jumpsuits were black or white with a halter top in the late 60's early 70's. Eventually color and print made their way into the jumpsuit designs where now new fabrics, accessories and a play on the traditional silhouette has brought this oldie into the 21st century.





Alexander McQueen - Spring Summer 2009, girl body con-jumpsuits made with Swarovski Crystals




First Left Above - Wallis Spring Summer 09, Navy halter jumpsuit

2. Futuristic Trends

This trend pushes thresholds with geometric shapes, altered silhouettes and uses color and pattern to make a statement. Whether this trend actually makes it into wardrobes or not is questionable but will definitely open up our eyes to new possibilities or encourage other designers to draw inspiration from unlikely places.




Celine - Spring/Summer 2009 Collection



Gareth Pugh - Spring/Summer 2009 Collection










Balenciaga - Spring/Summer 2009 Collection

Monday, November 23, 2009

Historical Artistic Styles






Greek & Roman dress







Grecian Goddess wedding dresses


From left to right August Jones, Lambert Creations, Mauel Mota

Grecian Goddess Draping



Looks from Chadwick Bell, James Coviello, Elie Saab, Valentino, and Kenzo.


Classical one-shoulder draping graced the runways of Elie Saab, Valentino and others, while Kenzo's dresses had more of a Romanesque tunic feel to them.


Historical reference:

Between 1800 and 1803 classical ornament used geometric shapes.
Greek key patterns decorated borders and garment hems, sleeve bands and shawls. All the embroidery was initially delicate and light, faithfully following the classical influence, but eventually the embroidery became coarsely execute


Abstract Art






1888PressRelease) April 15, 2009 - LONDON – Designers get inspiration from a lot of different places and for Rashida Kapadia creator of the Black Tangerine line of leather handbags, art has always been a primary source. Her “Magical Realism” handbag design, inspired by the art of Wassily Kandinsky.



At the Russian Court, Hermitage Museum, Amsterdam
Also opening this month is the expanded Hermitage Amsterdam. Aiming to bring more of Russia's artistic heritage to Western Europe, the museum is ten times larger than before. The inaugural exhibition, At the Russian Court: Palace and Protocol in the 19th century, includes over 1800 objects on loan from the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg. The grandeur and power of the period is shown threw hundreds of ball gowns and other costumes, court paintings, jewelry by Fabergé, and furniture including the famous Romanov throne.
Expect designers to be inspired by the opulence of Russian Court dressing. Gold embroideries, brocades, moirés, and satin shoes are all details that will be of interest. This exhibit is guaranteed to please Christian Lacroix, and we're guessing Erdem too.

















Modern Reference:
Christian Lacroix, Summer Collection 2009








Surrealism

Imitating Salvador Dali's Lobster Telephone, 1938: Orange velvet dress,Basso and Brooke



While the full, surrealist, monty might not be for everyone, it's all about creating an illusion and platform heels, cinched-in waists, sculpted jackets or a shell-shaped clutch bags are all elements of that - be it more wearable. Without surrealism, it's hard to imagine where fashion would be, but one's things for sure life would be a lot less fun.
























































Monday, November 9, 2009




The Corset




Rare soft wrap corset, c.1810-1820
The corset is fashioned from ivory cotton and is completely hand stitched. Gathered bust inserts and triagular side-hip inserts are the only shaping. The corset is laced only at the upper back opening. Waistline ties wrap around and pin in front.






A glimpse of corset styles taken from ads in the October and November 1919 issues of Woman Magazine. During the 1920's, corsets would start to shorten, have less boning and generally become less restrictive as a reaction against how early corsetry had been.The corsets shown in these vintage ads show the last remnants of Edwardian corsetry which would disappear forever during the advent of the Roaring 20's.




Vintage cincher retro corset 1950's style satin back laced corset by What Katie Did. What Katie Did cincher corset for a very pronounced waist, this little nipper is heavily boned and cut to really cinch that waist.





Jean Paul Gaultier - 1980's
Madonna's famout cone shaped corset that redefined sexy and sex appeal.



Chantilly lace & satin corset - Victoria Secret - 2009
A little lacy, a little racy. Lightly lined underwire cups. Back closure. Imported nylon/rayon

Monday, October 19, 2009

Tailored Garments & Historical Draped

Tailored Examples

Classic Tuxedo
Armani Collezioni Collection

Jacket:Notched satin collar; one-button front. Front besom pockets; plain back. Long sleeves; button cuffs.Pants: Satin trim down sides. Back welt pockets. Extended-tab waist; zip front. Both, black. Wool/spandex.

Bustle Dress

Victorian ensemble in grey glazed embroidered cotton. The fitted top has the deep square neckline typically seen in the l870’s. It is boned and closes with hook and eye in the back. A short poufed bustle effect is attached. The matching skirt is long forming a train, or can be bustled up, as shown, with inside twill ties.

Gho

The Gho is the traditional and national dress for men in Bhutan. Introduced in the 17th century by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyel to give the Bhutanese a more distinctive identity, it is a knee-length robe tied at the waist by a cloth belt known as the kera.

Draped Examples

Franciscan Monk

Franciscan monk or friar shown here wears a robe (a habit) and sandals; he carries a small cross on a chain or rosary.

Peploses

During the summer, Greek women wore peploses. A proper Greek women revealed nothing, which caused peploses to be long and of heavy wool material. This article of clothing could be fastened with different materials to reflect different styles.

Sari

A sari is a long piece of cloth draped around the shoulders and waist. Sometimes the waist and stomach is exposed. It depends upon the region and the individual woman. The back may be bare as well.

Monday, October 5, 2009

There are 6 Social Functions of Dress, which include
1. Environmental Protection
2. Decoration
3. Gender Differentiation
4. Group Membership
5. Ceremonialism
6. Sexual Enhancement


Environmental Protection
Clothes are functional and protect humans from extreme weather. Bedouin's wear long dress like clothing to protect them from direct sunlight and a lightweight head dress which can be wrapped around their face to protect them from vicious sand storms.


Decoration
–noun
something used for decorating; adornment; embellishment:

This function of a dress is considered the main function of dress. Decoration is worn to represent a particular look or feel. Here Carrie's bird headpiece adorns her exquisite Vivian Westwood's bridal gown.

Gender Differentiation

Female's outfits tend to be more decorative and include more embellishment in order to show their femininity. Where as male's apparel is an expression of strength and masculine.

Group Membership
People dress alike to show unity and represent a set of religious beliefs, values, commonalities, and interests to name a few. The 49ers unite for the love of the game.

Ceremonialism
For different celebrations and ceremonies that occur around the world a particular type of dress is worn to add value and importance to the event. Bhutanese natives show off their elaborate head dress for one of their many festivals.

Sexual Enhancement
People use dress to enhance their sexual appeal. Heidi Klum shows off an extravagant Victoria Secret ensamble.

Monday, September 14, 2009

Much to say about fashion

A fashion source book is as its title describes, a source that captures what inspires us, challenges us and inevitably what helps us express ourselves. Over a brief conversation with my best friend, we quickly brainstormed what my first blog topic should be... unsurprisingly we settle on Audrey Hepburn, remembering our middle schools years watching Roman Holiday and Sabrina on her beige couch. The epitome of chic, beautiful and classic. Yes, that's it...friendship and fasion intertwined to define how I view the subject today. Fashion, an all emcompassing attitude that makes subtle statements or bold expressions. Audrey Hepburn wore her clothes and used them to seam the different niches of herself. I have come to learn that whether intentional or not the clothes we drape over ourselves either tell others about who we are or who we hope to be. So, a threaded needle rasied to finding the colored string that best tells our story.

Sari

Sari

Peploses

Peploses

Franciscan Robe

Franciscan Robe

Gho

Gho

Victorian Bustle Dress

Victorian Bustle Dress

Classic Tuxedo

Classic Tuxedo